It's funny how your routine changes when you stop travelling. Not travelling means not blogging the trip. Hence the big gap in entries here. Now that I am missing travel, I remembered this blog.
So, I did in fact finish the trip. Vicenza was visually spectacular, and Mantua as well, though I've been there before. Somehow I missed this clock, though. Though its not as spectacular as the main one next to it, this one had the advantage of a pigeon posing on the hands. Obligingly in profile. I've come to really like this photo. My trip photos are available at flickr.com/photos/adraskoy It actually took me twice as long to go through them and process them as it did to take the trip in the first place.
Next up was Switzerland, visiting two of my favourite friends (are you allowed to have favourite friends???) Fiona and Marcus. A last visit to their sleepy little town at the bottom of the Alps, as they have now moved back to Germany. As always, it was simply a fun relaxing time with friends in a nice place. Epic journeys are nice, but relaxing with good friends for a week is a really welcome event as well!
On to London then, for two days at the very end of my adventure. This time staying with a friend I'd met again through sheer coincidence and trust of intuition on the first leg of the trip. Gemma and her friends showed me a side of London I didn't know about. They've turned their part of East London into a beautiful little community, in the human sense of the word. Great food, conversation, picnics in the sun, conversations with other friends met while wandering about. It was quite a lovely time. Best of all was the discovery of a common interest in singing, and a good bit of harmonizing around the kitchen table. Big cities don't generally interest me all that much, but I think I could happily live in that neighbourhood. I'd be the one wandering around imagining what it was like there hundreds of years ago and singing my way into the future-- or at least to the next gathering of friends.
Wednesday, November 26, 2008
Monday, May 5, 2008
Seeing and Singing and Dancing
Lucca
Italy is a visual feast at any time, and this trip has proved no exception. I am now in Verona, a city I know fairly well, having been here a number of times. I've been taking extra time here this time, as it's a comfortable place to be. There are still new things to see at every moment. There are also nice surprises of other kinds. On Sunday I got to see a performance of a local folk music and dance group. They even got a bunch of us to join in on a dance, which I was happy to do, of course. For a country with such strong traditions, folk music and interest in it is surprisingly rare, so this was a special treat for me.
It took me a while to get into my usual way of being in Italy-- wanting to explore and check out many different places. It's hit me now that I am about to leave! I went to Vicenza today, and have decided to (somehow!) put Mantova into my itinerary tomorrow. I'm supposed to be leaving the country tomorrow, and I'm out of memory cards for my camera, but we'll see. 8G of pictures and counting! Once I'm home there will probably be a lot of flickr posting.
Italy is a visual feast at any time, and this trip has proved no exception. I am now in Verona, a city I know fairly well, having been here a number of times. I've been taking extra time here this time, as it's a comfortable place to be. There are still new things to see at every moment. There are also nice surprises of other kinds. On Sunday I got to see a performance of a local folk music and dance group. They even got a bunch of us to join in on a dance, which I was happy to do, of course. For a country with such strong traditions, folk music and interest in it is surprisingly rare, so this was a special treat for me.
It took me a while to get into my usual way of being in Italy-- wanting to explore and check out many different places. It's hit me now that I am about to leave! I went to Vicenza today, and have decided to (somehow!) put Mantova into my itinerary tomorrow. I'm supposed to be leaving the country tomorrow, and I'm out of memory cards for my camera, but we'll see. 8G of pictures and counting! Once I'm home there will probably be a lot of flickr posting.
Saturday, May 3, 2008
Terra Cognita
One of my favourite places is the Campeggio di San Pietro above Verona. Hanging out in the bastions of an old ruined castle, enjoying the view of the city's red tile roofs, listening to the music of the many bell towers, eating really good food and wine cheap!
This is an old picture, but it's much the same. The tent and I are both a bit older and showing some wear, but the castel remains immortal.
Left Pisa after basing myself there in a convenient but less interesting campsite for five days. Made side trips to Lucca, which is fantastic, and Viareggio also. Viareggio is just a modern grid city with lots of sand on a boring beach. What makes it interesting is the sea of course, and the national park. There's a very interesting transition from shore through sand to dunes, and then some vegetation beginning-- mostly shrubs and what looks like Juniper. Soon there's some marsh and then the pine forest begins. At first there's a lot of sand amongst the pines which is an interesting juxtaposition. There's snakes and lizards all over the place, and lots of birds. Also undergrowth that looks like small palm trees of some sort. Eventually it becomes a regular pine forest, with lots of hanging vines, and finally the pines get very tall and assume the usual profile you find in Italy. It's not the cone-shaped tree we have in North America, but instead imagine an eighty-foot tall piece of broccoli.
Of Pisa itself, I have no more stories, save that after making that last entry I turned a corner and ran into an old friend from university. The tour of the archeological site was the highlight for me, and the visit to Lucca, which is the more interesting of the two cities.
I may do another day trip, but basically this is it before I go to visit friends. This is a place I know quiet well, so my trip has progressed in decreasing order of adventurousness. Generally, it's better to do it the other way around I think, but I'm enjoying the winding down, and seeing a familiar place with a more dicerning eye and a new camera.
Sunday, April 27, 2008
Eating in Italy
So, after an odd trip to Cairo (the bus broke down), and no sleep for two days, I am in Tuscany, camping. Cairo was actually quite wonderful on my last day, and I am glad to have had this positive experience of it. In retrospect, I definitely chose the wrong place to stay on my initial arrival, and that tainted my expectations and experience. The last week in Egypt was simply fantastic, and I would even consider going back, though not to the great tourist-as-victim-fest that is the run of ancient sites along the Nile. Glad I saw, them, though. The arrival to Rome was interesting. They had us all wait while they ushered a man out-- a medical emergency, though he looked fine. Then we had to go through some very heavy security before even entering the airport. Rather odd. Later the next day I saw the same guy on the news-- some kind of diplomatic talks in Rome, I think.
Rome was literally wonderful-- as in there are architectural wonders every few feet. Met up with a dance research colleague and had a grand chat and an excellent meal. Now I'm in Pisa, basing myself here for a while in a local campsite. It's a place with a nice feeling to it, and I got a great private tour of the excavation site of the ancient Roman fleet of ships they discovered a few years ago. Just amazing! Tomorrow I'll do a day trip to Lucca. For now I'm happily picnicking on inexpensive but really good cheeses by my tent, and having fun taking pictures. No way to work with or upload them from here, but you'll see them eventually on flickr.
Rome was literally wonderful-- as in there are architectural wonders every few feet. Met up with a dance research colleague and had a grand chat and an excellent meal. Now I'm in Pisa, basing myself here for a while in a local campsite. It's a place with a nice feeling to it, and I got a great private tour of the excavation site of the ancient Roman fleet of ships they discovered a few years ago. Just amazing! Tomorrow I'll do a day trip to Lucca. For now I'm happily picnicking on inexpensive but really good cheeses by my tent, and having fun taking pictures. No way to work with or upload them from here, but you'll see them eventually on flickr.
Wednesday, April 23, 2008
Diving in Dahab
The restaurants here all provide space for divers to lay out their gear to dry or prepare for a dive. This one has hangers in the shade for drysuits so they can dry while you eat lunch and rest between dives.
So, I ran screaming to Dahab to escape the craziness of travel along the Nile. This is the normal reaction, I hear, though usually the destination is out of Egypt. Actually, I flew to Sharm al Sheik which is even worse and then took a bus. Dahab, by contrast to most everywhere else I've been in Egypt, is a wonderful place. Very laid back, fair prices, not much hucksterism, no crowds of people chasing after you 24 hours a day trying to extract all your money, no air pollution. Having found a haven, I didn't want to leave until I had to, which is today. That left me with nearly six days, however. Six days by a beach is way too much relaxing for me, even after The Nile Experience.
I had planned to do some snorkelling, but hit upon a better idea: actual diving, as facilitated by doing a proper internationally certified PADI Open Water Scuba Diver course. That's the third level after a trial dive and basic scuba diving. It's very intense, and there's a lot of studying to do, but after five days I am certified (no jokes, you!) and have done five open water dives down to 18 metres max. The neat thing about learning in this environment is that you do the confined shallow water dives off the beach instead of in a pool. So, the whole time I was in warm water surrounded by fish and coral.
I've seen some amazing things, diving-- all kinds of sea life. The Red Sea is simply amazing. I have no idea what kinds of fish I was looking at, but they were all beautiful. As were the non-fish animals and all the plants. If only I had an underwater housing for my camera. Next camera I will get one for sure.
Heading back to Cairo with tonight's security convoy. (Most long distance bus travel is done this way in Egypt). I'll arrive tomorrow, hopefully locate the music store I want to find, and then head to the airport and Rome.
So, I ran screaming to Dahab to escape the craziness of travel along the Nile. This is the normal reaction, I hear, though usually the destination is out of Egypt. Actually, I flew to Sharm al Sheik which is even worse and then took a bus. Dahab, by contrast to most everywhere else I've been in Egypt, is a wonderful place. Very laid back, fair prices, not much hucksterism, no crowds of people chasing after you 24 hours a day trying to extract all your money, no air pollution. Having found a haven, I didn't want to leave until I had to, which is today. That left me with nearly six days, however. Six days by a beach is way too much relaxing for me, even after The Nile Experience.
I had planned to do some snorkelling, but hit upon a better idea: actual diving, as facilitated by doing a proper internationally certified PADI Open Water Scuba Diver course. That's the third level after a trial dive and basic scuba diving. It's very intense, and there's a lot of studying to do, but after five days I am certified (no jokes, you!) and have done five open water dives down to 18 metres max. The neat thing about learning in this environment is that you do the confined shallow water dives off the beach instead of in a pool. So, the whole time I was in warm water surrounded by fish and coral.
I've seen some amazing things, diving-- all kinds of sea life. The Red Sea is simply amazing. I have no idea what kinds of fish I was looking at, but they were all beautiful. As were the non-fish animals and all the plants. If only I had an underwater housing for my camera. Next camera I will get one for sure.
Heading back to Cairo with tonight's security convoy. (Most long distance bus travel is done this way in Egypt). I'll arrive tomorrow, hopefully locate the music store I want to find, and then head to the airport and Rome.
Saturday, April 19, 2008
Fires by the Nile
I figured out one of the sources of all the air pollution along the Nile. Everywhere farmers are burning the stubble from the cane sugar plant harvest. The skies are dark, the air sweet with smoke. West Bank of Luxor, taken from the East Bank.
Sand from the Sahara, and the huge number of old vehicles along the Nile and cheap gas to fuel them, are other factors. Plus a total lack of environmental awareness.
So: adventures along the Nile.
There have certainly been adventures, though they mostly deal with the near-constant attempts of locals to part me from all my money. In Egypt, it seems that everyone is a hustler of some sort. I did meet a few exceptions, but literally only a few. This made the first ten days or so somewhat stressful at times. Mind you, I've seen wonderful things and there will be marvellous tales to tell! The ten-year-old in me is very happy to have been inside the Great Pyramid and to have seen Abu Simbel and explored the Valley of the Dead. I also really liked the older timeless aspects of the culture that come out in many places, and the New Pola hotel in Luxor was a welcome and luxiourious refuge.
Now I'm in Dahab, a laid-back inexpensive place, which is a wonderful contrast. I'm going to hang out here until I've recovered from the stress of life travelling along the Nile. Right now, I'm happy to have dipped my toes in the Red Sea and found a nice little place by the water. There's a cat living here with the most marvellous green eyes and a beautiful marmalade kitten who is very playful.
Sand from the Sahara, and the huge number of old vehicles along the Nile and cheap gas to fuel them, are other factors. Plus a total lack of environmental awareness.
So: adventures along the Nile.
There have certainly been adventures, though they mostly deal with the near-constant attempts of locals to part me from all my money. In Egypt, it seems that everyone is a hustler of some sort. I did meet a few exceptions, but literally only a few. This made the first ten days or so somewhat stressful at times. Mind you, I've seen wonderful things and there will be marvellous tales to tell! The ten-year-old in me is very happy to have been inside the Great Pyramid and to have seen Abu Simbel and explored the Valley of the Dead. I also really liked the older timeless aspects of the culture that come out in many places, and the New Pola hotel in Luxor was a welcome and luxiourious refuge.
Now I'm in Dahab, a laid-back inexpensive place, which is a wonderful contrast. I'm going to hang out here until I've recovered from the stress of life travelling along the Nile. Right now, I'm happy to have dipped my toes in the Red Sea and found a nice little place by the water. There's a cat living here with the most marvellous green eyes and a beautiful marmalade kitten who is very playful.
Sunday, April 13, 2008
Entry to Luxor
I love the taxi service in Luxor!!! These caleches are everywhere, and cheap. Very nice way to get around town.
A week in Egypt now, and I have a number of strong impressions. The ancient sites are all that I could wish, and are quite wonderful. The warm weather is great as well, though tempered by the worst air pollution I have ever experienced. Fuel is cheap here, and I think this is a bad thing. Not all traffic is cars, however. Luxor in particular has many horse-drawn carriages, though it is mainly tourists that use these. Still, they are ubiquitous and affordable. You can also rent bikes, though not many do. Yesterday I toured around the temples and tombs of the Valley of the Dead on one, and it was excellent.
Luxor itself has several sides. The Corniche along the Nile would be wonderful except for all the traffic and the endless "hassle" as they call it. You can't walk two feet without being assailed by people who want to sell you things. They are very devious and persistent about it as well. They will follow you across the Nile on a ferry, and around wherever you go. They will give you false directions to try and send you to a shop of theirs, and many other tactics. It never ends, and it definitely sours what would otherwise be a wonderful experience.
Still, I am having a good time, and am staying in a wonderful hotel very cheaply. The campsite I wanted has been taken over by a travelling bazaar for the month, but inexpensive luxury is a reasonable compromise :-)
Off to Aswan tomorrow if I can arrange it. Today: the Valley of Kings.
A week in Egypt now, and I have a number of strong impressions. The ancient sites are all that I could wish, and are quite wonderful. The warm weather is great as well, though tempered by the worst air pollution I have ever experienced. Fuel is cheap here, and I think this is a bad thing. Not all traffic is cars, however. Luxor in particular has many horse-drawn carriages, though it is mainly tourists that use these. Still, they are ubiquitous and affordable. You can also rent bikes, though not many do. Yesterday I toured around the temples and tombs of the Valley of the Dead on one, and it was excellent.
Luxor itself has several sides. The Corniche along the Nile would be wonderful except for all the traffic and the endless "hassle" as they call it. You can't walk two feet without being assailed by people who want to sell you things. They are very devious and persistent about it as well. They will follow you across the Nile on a ferry, and around wherever you go. They will give you false directions to try and send you to a shop of theirs, and many other tactics. It never ends, and it definitely sours what would otherwise be a wonderful experience.
Still, I am having a good time, and am staying in a wonderful hotel very cheaply. The campsite I wanted has been taken over by a travelling bazaar for the month, but inexpensive luxury is a reasonable compromise :-)
Off to Aswan tomorrow if I can arrange it. Today: the Valley of Kings.
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